When you have a flood in your home, you face a couple of deadlines after you or nature has turned the water off. Water will begin to soak into a concrete floor within six to twelve hours, which signifcantly prolongs drying time. And given the right combinationof absorbent materials(such as paper, fabric, and drywall) and temperature, mold will begin to grow within two to three days. Don't delay if you plan to file a claim with your home insurer to cover the cost of cleanup. Once mold begins to grow, your insurer may refuse your claim because you failed to act quickly enough. if you've been on vacation, you're
more likely to be covered because you had no control over the situation.
If the deluge came from overhead, beware sagging structural components and light fixtures full of water. You may also need to punch "weep holes" in the ceiling to allow ceiling cavities to drain. Depending on the water's source, you may want to wear an organic vapor respirator ($25-$30). You can mop up or vacuum the water with a wet vac. A dehumidifier and a fan will help. Failing to dry out walls or dry under vinyl or wood-laminate floors can lead to mold growth and a musty odor.
When DO you call in a pro? If you can't dry the space before mold begins to develop, you need a restoration contractor (Call me _ 678-478-1534 at Quick-Pro Plumbing, We work closely with a restoration company certified in mold and Cleaning and Restoration and chances are, They already have a working relationship with your home insurance co.). You can expect to pay upwards of $2000.00 for a single room- to extract clean water (say from a broken waterline), clean a carpet, replace the carpet pad, and apply an antimicrobial spray. Removing and replacing baseboards and drywall above the waterline to dry out walls can more than double the cost.
At a minimum, mopping up after a pipe freezes and bursts is a messy chore. But if you don't discover the leak for some time, you'll face a big water bill and costly damage. Prevention is the key to avoiding the hassle and the expense.
Suprisingly, homes in the south are at greater risk because they're often constructed with the pipes located on the homes exterior walls or in insulated attics, says the Institute for Business and Home Safety (www.disastersafety.org) Insulating exposed pipes keeps them from freezing; self-sealing, closed-cell, polyethylene sleeves available from home -supply stores (about $3 for six feet), are a good choice to do the job.
Interior pipes along exterior walls that serve sinks and appliances are also at risk. During a cold snap, leave cabinet doors open so that heated air can warm pipes. Open all taps, both hot and cold, just enough so there's a slow drip. That will relieve the pressure that would otherwise build up between the ice blockage and the closed spigot and rupture the pipe.
During winter, don't set your home's thermostat lower than 55 degrees. If you plan to be gone for an extended period of time, drain the water from the water system by shutting off the main valve and turning on all water fixtures until the water stops running. If a pipe does freeze, little or no water will come out of the faucet. You can try to thaw it out with a hair dryer. If a pipe bursts, turn off the water at the main shutt-off valve and leave the taps open untill repairs are done.